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What is Cognac exactly? Cognac is a specific type of brandy produced from distilled white wine. It must be distilled twice, using copper pot stills, and aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of two years.
Cognac’s distillation season lasts from October 1 through March 31, a five-month annual window. For most producers, distillation lasts for even less time, though. It cannot begin until after the grape harvest and the wine production which ensues. Therefore, distillation in earnest does not begin for most until closer to the start of November.
The primary reason why the season closes at the end of March is that, per regulation, Cognac cannot be made with wine which has had added sulfites. Therefore, as the weather warms post winter, newly produced wine sans sulfites simply won’t retain its quality as it sits in large tanks waiting for distillation.
Cognac can be distilled either with, or without, wine sediment. Most producers choose one or the other, contributing to their house’s style, whereas Courvoisier is the only major house to change its process based upon which region its working with for that distillation batch. And while the spirit is most commonly bottled at 40 percent ABV, there’s a small, growing contingent of labels offering higher proof bottles.
Distillation itself doesn’t turn wine into Cognac, though. Not directly. The first distillation, in a still no greater than 10,000 L in size, produces brouillis. The second distillation, in a still no greater than 2,500 L, produces eau de vie.
An eau de vie can remain in the barrel for centuries and still not be “Cognac.” Regardless of age, eau de vies remain known as such until they’re blended together. It is the blending, therefore, that takes myriad eau de vies and turns them collectively into Cognac.
After blending, the Cognac then marries together in massive vats for set times dependent upon style and brand choice. At this point the spirit is ready for release as a Cognac, although it is occasionally re-barreled for further aging after the marrying process. Blending is the key to producing Cognac, and consistently delivering a particular profile from one year to the next.
A single eau de vie won’t provide the full depth of character and range of flavour that a blended Cognac would. Therefore, it’s the cellar masters, master blenders and master tasters who are the true voices of authority for any Cognac house.
At Hennessy, a prestigious seven person tasting committee samples 10,000 eau de vies per year. It’s a highly rigid process, everything is controlled from glass shape and type of water drank with the samples, to time of the day—11 a.m, always—ensuring that only one variable is in play, the particular characteristics of each eau de vie.
Hennessy likes to say that until members have served 10 years on the committee, they’re not allowed to talk, or voice an opinion to more distinguished colleagues. Yann Fillioux, 7th generation Hennessy master blender, has been on the committee for 50 years.
Each brand will have its own process for building a “complete” Cognac, but what remains consistent is that blending enables long-term consistency, while allowing for flexibility to achieve that consistency.
Different vintages may produce grapes which are more or less acidic, resulting in different eau de vies, and a need to adjust blends rather than rely upon a single formula.
At Rémy Martin, their 20-person tasting committee samples at least 20 to 30 eau de vies per day.